RACE INFORMATION

DATE: January 27, 2010

TIME: 6:15 PM Check-in

LOCATION: St. Rose Hall (Gym)

(at our regularly scheduled pack meeting)

Below you will find several sections. Please take the time to read each section.

1. Basic Rules

2. Detailed Rules and Race Day Process

3. How to build a Raingutter Regatta Sail Boat

1. Basic Rules

BASIC RULES

The boat must be newly built for the current Cub Scouting year

Hull: 1-piece design, no longer than 7" or shorter than 6 1/2"

Mast: 6 1/2" from deck to top (measure the one from the kit...it may be too long!)

Keel: Supplied in kit (no modifications)

Rudder: Supplied in kit (no modifications)

Sail: No larger than material supplied

Sail boat: Made from the provided official BSA Regatta kit

Hydrofoils and catamarans are NOT permitted because they provide a competitive advantage.

  The rules for the Raingutter Regatta are fairly simple. The boys build boats from standard BSA kits. The boys can decorate in any manner they choose.

The actual race will be divided into rank categories: Tiger, Wolf, Bear, and Webelos similar to the Pinewood Derby. The boys blow air on the boats, through straws, to move them through the water. Hands may only be used to upright a turned over boat and may not be used to advance the boat. Boys may not use their faces, lips, hats, nose or other body parts to move the boat -- just their lung power!

2. Detailed Rules and Race Day Process

Construction rules

1. The boat must be newly built for the current Cub Scouting year. As much as practical, the boat should be substantially built by the Scout with parental supervision. The boat should use every part from the BSA Raingutter Regatta Kit. Additional parts, decals, paint, and glue are permitted.
2. Overall width shall not exceed 2 1/4 inches.
3. Overall length from bow to stern (including rudder) shall not exceed 7.00 inches, nor shorter than 6.50 inches.
4. The mast must rise 6.50 inches above the deck.
5. Below the waterline, no more than the forward 1 inch and the aft 1 inch may be shaped in any way. Surfaces and edges may be sanded smooth.
6. The boat must have a single hull. Although you might find designs for double hulled boats we ask that all boats must be single hull. The boat may not be of hydrofoil, hydroplane, outrigger, or catamaran design.
7. Only the sail supplied with the kit may be used. The sail may be trimmed, but must not be shaped or folded. The sail must be upright for its entire length and must be attached to the mast supplied with the kit. The mast may be placed in any position on the top of the boat and the sail may be arched or curved in one dimension only. The sail may be tied, tacked, or glued in place as long as it is upright and unfolded.
8. The keel and rudder from the kit must be used. Only the keel and rudder supplied with the kit may be placed below the waterline. The keel and rudder may be placed anywhere on the boat, but cannot cause the boat to exceed 7.00 inches in overall length.
9. The Rank, Den Number, and first and last name of the scout should be on the lower portion of the sail.
10. Modifications above the waterline for creative or decorative purposes are allowed as long as they do not alter sail performance. Details such as figures, decals and paint are permissible as long as these details are securely glued or fastened to the boat. The scouts are encouraged to decorate their boat, as this adds to the experience.

Race Rules:

1. Two boys will race against each other at a time. We have at least four lanes.
2. Each boat must start with the back of the boat touching the end of the rain gutter; the boy must hold it there with one hand.
3. When the starter says go, the boys will propel the boats by blowing on the sail, through a straw provided by the Pack. No sharing of straws please.
4. The boy may use his hand only to upright his boat or to remove an impediment (i.e. if the boat is stuck on the gutter). THE BOY MAY NOT ADVANCE THE BOAT WITH HIS HAND AT ANY TIME. If a boy does so, he will be given a warning and the race rerun if that boy wins.
5. If a boat gets broken during a race, the results stand.
6. The race may be rerun if the judge finds a reason that merits it. Decisions by the Harbor Master and First and Gutter Captains are final.

3. How to build a a Raingutter Regatta Sail Boat

You MUST use the official BSA kit.

The slot for the keel and rudder DO NOT come pre-formed...you add them during construction.

You can paint and decorate however you like.

Adding small action figures is a nice touch.

Too much weight may sink the ship!

One web site suggests "Krylon" spray paint works very well on Balsa Wood.

Sails may have the rank, den number and the Scouts First and Last name.

This is optional, but recommended.

Other sail decorations are acceptable and encouraged.

The instructions in the kit and several web sites suggest cutting 1/4-inch off all sides of the sail. This is optional.

This allows the sail not to hang over the sides of the boat and touch the raingutter.

Some websites suggest that you plug the original mast hole with wood putty and drill a new one which does not extend all the way though the boat. This is a choice for you and your scout!

You will need to make a slot for the keel and rudder. Every boat needs a keel and rudder or it will not go strait down the track.

Option 1: Install the rudder as shown in the kit instructions. It is up to you if the rudder touches the keel or if you want to leave a space (as in the picture of the red boat above).

Option 2: Install the rudder upside down and touching the keel. Some sites say this will make your boat go faster, some sites say it does not matter. Experiment in the bath tub and have fun!

Suggestions from other Packs...All of these are OPTIONAL

1. The bottom edge of the sail needed to be about 1/2 inch above the deck of the boat.  If the sail was too low the corners rubbed against the gutter or dipped in the water.  If the sail was too high the boat was top heavy and tended to tip over.

2. Tie back sail by tying thread to each of the lower corners of the sail and then securing the "lines" to each side of the boat (tying to a straight pin and then pushing the pins into the hulls is an easy way to do this.) This will keep the sail from twisting when being blown on. The sail will stay at a 90-degree angle to the hull and allow it to "catch" the most air possible, thereby promoting speed.

3. The boats sailed best if they were balanced with more weight to the rear. This elevated the bow of the boat, and when they were blown, they ran almost even.

4. The keels needed to be placed about 3/4 of an inch behind the mast. Don't follow the instructions in the kit. The rudder should be placed touching the keel.

5. Keep hull flat. Do not round the hull into a V as with a normal boat. The flatter and wider the hull the more stable the boats are, that are made from the BSA kit.

6. Sandpaper the balsa hull to the desired shape, adhering to the racing rules. First use a medium-grade sandpaper, then finish off with very fine sandpaper.

7. Placing a groove in the bottom of the boat helps the boat go strait.

8. Blow evenly with the straw at a point about 1 inch from the bottom of the sail. Blowing the boat down one edge of the gutter rather than letting it "tack" back and forth seemed to be the fastest.

9. Look straight down the raingutter with your ear almost in the water and blow strong and long. (practice really helps!) Make sure the airstream is landing in your sail (near the base) not in the water. About one second will pass with each breath you take - so the fewer the better!

And most importantly;

HAVE FUN

Copyright 2009 Cub Scout Pack 212

Raingutter Regatta Tips and Tricks

Standard BSA kit construction tips:

Trim the hull to make it symmetrical.

Ensure the rudder is flat. A bent rudder will steer the boat into the raingutter.

Wax the hull. Use paraffin or ski wax.

Seal the boat in oil based, acrylic paint or polyurethane coating.

Attach the metal keel ¾ to 1” further aft (toward the rear) than what the

instruction recommend.

Add bumpers to the boat to keep it from sticking to the sides of the raingutter.

Heavier boats are slower, in general. Ensure deck-o-rations do not add excessive

weight. Do not place too much weight toward the bow of the boat. The boats sail

best with more of the weight toward the aft end of the boat.

Attach accessories (such as people, animals, etc.) firmly to the boat using hot

glue.

Use an acrylic clear coat varnish or seal over decals and accessories. Use several

layers to create a deep shine and hide the edges of the decals.

Ensure the boat is waterproof! Paint all exposed areas of wood with acrylic or

oil-based paint (acrylic is water resistant when dried).

When racing, blow a thin stream of wind, rather than try to blow big puffs of air

toward the boat.

Appendix A – Glossary

Aft – Toward the stern. Many seafaring terms are from Old English; this one means

back”.

Beam – The width of a boat at its widest. From an Old English word for “tree”.

Bow – The forward part of a boat or ship.

Centerline – The line down the middle of a boat. It’s used as a guide to make boats

symmetrical.

Dry Dock – Area to set aside to modify or repair boats prior to the start of the event.

Harbor Master – Referee or the Official in Charge of the Regatta.

Hull – The body of a boat exclusive of deck structures. From an Old English word

meaning "to conceal"; the crew is "hidden" from the water in the hull.

Keel – Extension of a boat, running the length of the bottom of its hull. Old English word

for "throat, beak of a ship".

Port – The left side of a boat looking forward. Also called "larboard". From Latin "port"

or "harbor". Long ago, it is said, certain major ports were approached so sailors saw them

first from the left side of the ship. Eventually, that side was called the port side.

Port Authority – Pack leadership responsible for race rules and operation.

Starboard – The right side of a boat looking forward. Old English: steering oar + ship's

side.

Stern – The rear end of a boat. Old English word meaning "to steer".

BSA Sail Template

Three separate parts make up the sail (See below).

1. Wall - The back of the sail. "C" shaped when viewed from the top, it rises vertically.

2. Roof - The top part of the sail is flat, sloping down toward the bow.

3. Floor - The bottom of the sail is horizontal. It is hot glued or stapled to the deck.

Assembly

Glue the parts of the sail together with hot melt glue. Plastic

model cement does not stick to the plastic.

1. Using the Sail Template (Appendix F), trace the outline of

the wall, roof and floor on the sail material with a ballpoint

pen.

2. Cut out the wall.

3. Cut a small shape from scrap. Glue it over the mast hole in

the sail wall.

4. Cut the edges of the floor and roof that have no tabs first.

5. Cut an arc passing the scissors through the tips of the tabs.

6. Cut the left sides of the tab triangles then the right sides.

7. Remove any dangling triangles between tabs that are not

completely cut off. 8. Test bend all tabs back. Then raise

them to make right angles.

9. Beginning with the center tabs of the floor, apply small

dots of hot glue. Immediately, firmly, press each tab to the

center, bottom edge of the wall. Bonding is immediate - a

second chance to line parts up is not likely.

10. Continue to put hot glue on the tabs next to those already bonded to the wall and

press them firmly in place.

11. Carefully join the roof and wall piece in a similar fashion. Press each tab to the wall

firmly. Bond only a few tabs at a time so the hot glue does not cool before it is pressed in

place.

Appendix C – Bumpers

Add bumpers to keep the boat from rubbing and sticking to the gutter walls and overhanging

lips. Bumpers can save the day when everyone else gets stuck! The two kinds of

rain gutters require two kinds of bumpers. A third kind of bumper is needed to get a

better start.

Problem: You are getting ready to deliver that last directed puff of air to the sail.

Suddenly, you notice the little overhang along the top edge of the gutter has your hull

pinched under it. You blow hard, but the boat only spins a bit hinged between the lip and

the water. Your boat has just been “Shipwrecked!” Lip bumpers keep the boat off the

lip-edge of the raingutter wall. To keep from getting stuck under it, the bumpers must be

tall enough to clear the lip of the raingutter.

Construction

• A good size for lip bumpers is one inch tall and one-half

inch wide. Bumpers should be thin and springy if

possible.

• Cut bumpers out of wood, plastic or other waterproof

(or water-proof) materials.

• Round the corners of your bumper so sharp edges don't

catch.

• Glue the bumper to the edge of the hull as far forward as possible. If your bow comes to

a point (like an unaltered BSA kit hull), attach bumper pairs to the bow, beam and stern.

• Whenever possible, build the bumpers into the hull.

A Better Start

Problem: "Blow!" – the race begins, but your boat just

doesn't pop off the starting line. Something is holding it

back momentarily. Surely, this slows it down. Adhesive

contact can be a problem at the starting line! The boats

are required to start backed up against the raingutter end

cap. When the stern is flat, it contacts the end cap over its

entire width and height. When wet, this contact can be

quite forceful, preventing a clean get away. Avoiding

contact is the key to defeating adhesive forces. To do

this, make little bumpers that jut out to the rear, holding

your boat away from the end cap at least 1/8-inch. Better

yet, cut a long notch in the back of your hull so only the outside edges of the stern touch.

Removable Bumpers

Transparency film or other springy plastics can be glued with rubber cement (contact

cement) to the hull after it is finished. Because the glue can be separated from the plastic

and wooden hull, bumpers can be removed with no trace when desired. But make sure to

allow the glue to fully dry before testing!

Rain Gutter Regatta

Ahoy, Mates! This could be the sailing regatta of the century! Although the seas are only 10-foot lengths of rain gutter filled with water, and the ships are a mere 6 inches long, the race is an exciting event. Each boy builds his own boat, with supervision and help from parents or other family members. He also provides the wind for the sail with his own lung power.

Have your boat ready for the Rain gutter Regatta the appropriate pack meeting.

Regatta Rules (from "How to Book" and parent meeting 12/7/06)

1. Rigging for sail allowed but stay with the kit.
2. Can add accessories.
3. No catamarans.
4. Hull may be no longer than 7 inches nor shorter than 6 .5 inches.
5. Mast should measure 6 ½ inches from deck to top.
6. The keel and rudder supplied in the kit must be used with no alterations.
7. The sail should be no larger than the material supplied in the kit.

Make a stand of short Popsicle sticks (2 x's connected) or use the Regatta box and cut slits for the keel and rudder.

Construction Tips for the "How To Book"

1. Sandpaper the balsa hull to the desired shape, adhering to the specifications required. First use a medium-grade sandpaper, then finish with a very fine grade sandpaper.
2. Give model two coats of sanding sealer.
3. Mast can be tapered with either a hand or electric drill. While you carefully turn the dowel, work a piece of sandpaper back and forth until desired shape is achieved.